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Just got back from the dealer for an oil leak on my 2015 Grand Caravan. 30,000 miles. Was told the oil cooler was leaking. No charge repair under the warranty. Should I be expecting further issues with this?
Hopefully not, no. As long as you or whoever does your oil changes doesn't wrench on that oil cap, you'll be fine. 25 nM is not alot of force, especially with a lubed o-ring.
 
Well crap. I just read/skimmed thru most of this thread, and my new to me 14 GC has a build date of Nov 13. Hopefully it's been handled already prior to my owning it. I didn't see where anyone said a good way to tell if it has been taken care of.
 
Well crap. I just read/skimmed thru most of this thread, and my new to me 14 GC has a build date of Nov 13. Hopefully it's been handled already prior to my owning it. I didn't see where anyone said a good way to tell if it has been taken care of.
Because there is none. Even with proper documentation that shows maintenance records, there is no way to see how it was driven.

If it looks fine to you, and everything works perfect and looks perfect, then you just take good care of it and you should be ok.
 
Has nothing to do about how it was driven. Just have to hope it wasn't over torqued during previous oil changes, but sometimes the seam just gives way. No way to see part revision number when installed.
 
Well boys...I was under the van last night inspecting and noticed alot of oil residue all around pretty much covering the transmission pan. I didn't think to look up between the trans and engine (for some stupid reason) but I was more concerned with it being a trans issue since I JUST had it in for service for the harsh shifting. I made another appt at the same dealer (free loaners) to have them look at the leak. I am 95% sure its the oil cooler!

I will put it up on the ramps again tonight and inspect further. I was reading more on the Wrangler Forum (great resource when it comes to these issues) and alot of members were stating it leaks down the backside of the engine/trans area not just in the intake valley under the oil filter. The area is common to spot rear main seal leaks.
 
Usually the oil cooler leaks a lot when cracked, to the point it's not safe to drive due to rapid oil loss.
 
I hear ya but the rate of leak would be determined of course by the size of the crack. I didn't get a chance to look at it again yet but it would explain my oil level dropping slowly over the last OCI. I have an appt scheduled for next Tuesday...
 
Well, thankfully, it was determined that no leak was present. I even got a chance to look under the van myself when I picked it up last Friday. There were a couple of weep points around the trans gasket but nothing that would cause alarm. Way too paranoid now...:nut:

I can definitely attest to having a lift makes it alot easier to inspect the underside :thumb:

Also, checked the oil level after it had been sitting for three days and the level is right at the full mark...:biggrin:
 
The last time I went in for an oil change I queried the dealership about this problem. They stated the man to talk to was on vacation and that he would call me on his return. Of course, I never got a call. Since we have a substantial road trip planned I called up the dealership and the service manager told me to bring it down and they would check for any leaks. He stated they take a wood dowel and stick it down by the base of the canister. Well they did and oil was found. At this point I really had no issues with the oil and after looking at some paperwork on this issue he told me he really couldn't do anything until there WAS a problem. I talked to him about the info I found online about this issue and that this was our first new car since 1986. That we were planning a trip to the mountains and I really did not want a problem to develop while out in the back country somewhere. Out of the blue he said, why don't you bring it in Wednesday (9-14) and we will replace it. Gotta say that put a smile on my face. Hopefully with this fixed, I can start changing my own oil now too. :headbange
 
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Sounds like you have a great dealer, nice! I'm curious, how much oil was found on the dowel? Its pretty easy to spill a lot down in that area doing the routine oil changes...
 
Sounds like you have a great dealer, nice! I'm curious, how much oil was found on the dowel? Its pretty easy to spill a lot down in that area doing the routine oil changes...
Well, they never stated an amount. There was this that I read on the notification on page two of this thread. >>Remove the dowel and check if there is about 10 mm (0.39 inch) of oil covering the tip of the dowel. If oil is found to be pooling in this area, the Oil Filter Housing may need to be replaced.<<

Now here is my question. How does the NEW canister compare to the Old one?? Is the new one metal or a stronger composite? Looking at it, looks pretty much the same.
Here is what was on my invoice:

Following the guidance set forth in TSB 09-008-15, isolated oil leak to be coming from the oil filter assembly. Removed intake manifold to gain access, removed faulty oil filter housing/cooler assembly, reinstall intake manifold, test drive to verify repair.

I see nowhere in the list of job description items does it mention a oil filter housing. There is a Adapter Engine, Gasket Intake M 090 (3). Antifreeze coolant and Mopar Oil.
I guess I am wondering if they replaced the housing with the same dang original one and not the improved one?
 
... I see nowhere in the list of job description items does it mention a oil filter housing. There is a Adapter Engine, Gasket Intake M 090 (3). Antifreeze coolant and Mopar Oil.
I guess I am wondering if they replaced the housing with the same dang original one and not the improved one?
The technical name of the oil filter housing is "ADAPTER, ENGINE OIL FILTER" so that would be the "Adapter Engine" on the job description sheet. According to this post: #67, earlier in this thread, the new part number is 68105583AE.
 
Well, they never stated an amount. There was this that I read on the notification on page two of this thread. >>Remove the dowel and check if there is about 10 mm (0.39 inch) of oil covering the tip of the dowel. If oil is found to be pooling in this area, the Oil Filter Housing may need to be replaced.<<

Now here is my question. How does the NEW canister compare to the Old one?? Is the new one metal or a stronger composite? Looking at it, looks pretty much the same.
Here is what was on my invoice:

Following the guidance set forth in TSB 09-008-15, isolated oil leak to be coming from the oil filter assembly. Removed intake manifold to gain access, removed faulty oil filter housing/cooler assembly, reinstall intake manifold, test drive to verify repair.

I see nowhere in the list of job description items does it mention a oil filter housing. There is a Adapter Engine, Gasket Intake M 090 (3). Antifreeze coolant and Mopar Oil.
I guess I am wondering if they replaced the housing with the same dang original one and not the improved one?
The canister does not leak, the housing it screws onto is what cracks. Did you have to pay for this repair or was it done under warranty? I believe your van is older than 36 months, or is this covered under the 5 year/100000 mile powertrain warranty?
 
The technical name of the oil filter housing is "ADAPTER, ENGINE OIL FILTER" so that would be the "Adapter Engine" on the job description sheet. According to this post: #67, earlier in this thread, the new part number is 68105583AE.
I missed that and yes that is the part number on the invoice. Guess I am good to go. Am I safe to start changing the oil myself now?
 
The canister does not leak, the housing it screws onto is what cracks. Did you have to pay for this repair or was it done under warranty? I believe your van is older than 36 months, or is this covered under the 5 year/100000 mile powertrain warranty?
It was stated earlier in the thread that it should be covered under the 5 year/100,000 powertrain warranty and I guess it was as I paid nothing for the change over.
 
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You are always able to change the oil yourself. Keep the receipts and track mileage :thumb:
Well normally yes, that is true, but I also know some folks cracked the housing while doing it, that is what I want to try and avoid.
 
Texas

This happened to me and another friend of mine who has a 2014 Jeep Wrangler Sahara... both of us (within weeks of each other) had massive oil leaks. I took mine in after smelling a burning oil smell that completely stunk up the inside of my Jeep. When I took mine in the guy said he has seen this so many times that he could already tell me what he thought the problem was (the oil adapter cracking) and he was right. There were so many people having the problem that it took 2 weeks to get the part (which left me without a vehicle) and at that point the Jeep wasn't even 2 years old yet. He also told me it was a good thing I came in when I did because of the amount of oil that was all over the engine and every where else... he said it was a fire hazard. I reported it to the NHTSA and provided them with all of the information I obtained and still nothing has been done. You can literally read all of the complaints at NHTSA on this issue.
 
I took my 2014 RAM V6 into the dealer today after noticing a major oil leak. The dealer says that it appears to be coming from a cooler at the top of the engine. The part has been ordered. Hoping for good results. Hearing that others are having or have had the same problem is disturbing.
 
So you don't have use of your (work?) vehicle until part comes in? I watched the Jiffy Lube guy (where corporate makes us take their vehicles) replace the oil filter in "my" 2012 Ram Van. He used a huge 1/2" socket wrench with a long extension. He really torqued the heck out of it, but it's a 2012, no reports of them breaking, just occurrences of the spring loaded retainer breaking.
 
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