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Hello, I have a 2012 Town and Country and am having the tipm fuel pump relay issue. Going to use the cable untill my vv bypass relay system is delivered. Does the vv bypass relay systems pose a safety concern? In the event of an accident and the motor shuts off, will the pump continue to run? If a fuel line were ruptured it could be a fire concern.
 
Discussion starter · #62 ·
The VV unit (or external relay) should shut off just like stock in a crash since it uses the same trigger circuit. I've not heard of any ill effects from using the VV unit.
 
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The first post in this thread says there are three ways to fix this:
(1) A temporary bypass cable
(2) An external relay
(3) The VV Plugin bypass module

But with all due respect, you can also just replace the failed relay. I bought the correct replacement relay from DigiKey for $2.76, took apart the TIPM, unsoldered the bad relay, and soldered in a new relay. Taking apart the TIPM is a little tricky but not too hard, and the fix has lasted since I performed it in November 2022.

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Discussion starter · #64 ·
Rebuilding or replacing the TIPM is an option too, but you have to go through it all again if it fails. With the 3 methods I listed if it fails, you replace an easily accessible part (although the bypass cable should never be used long term, see 1st pic in thread). Hopefully you get 11+ years out of the new relay like you did the original. Me personally, I'd rather have every single relay in the TIPM be user-replaceable.
 
Hopefully you get 11+ years out of the new relay like you did the original. Me personally, I'd rather have every single relay in the TIPM be user-replaceable.
Oh I completely agree. Taking apart and component-repairing the TIPM is not a typical DIY home-garage-mechanic repair like changing the oil or swapping in new brake pads. But for those who are handy with electronics, it certainly is an inexpensive repair, even if taking apart the TIPM and putting it back together is a bit of a fiddly operation.

I used the bypass cable first as a diagnostic tool to work out why my van wouldn't start and verify the relay was at fault, and would have likely sent my van to a repair shop if it wasn't for the excellent information on this forum. I was pretty surprised to learn that the van's fuel pump relay of all things is a tiny micro-relay buried inside the TIPM and soldered to a board, rather than a large and easy-to-swap plug-in relay. It's almost an unconscionable design; whomever decided the fuel pump relay should NOT be an easy plug-in relay should really be taken out and shot.
 
Hello, I have a 2012 Town and Country and am having the tipm fuel pump relay issue. Going to use the cable untill my vv bypass relay system is delivered. Does the vv bypass relay systems pose a safety concern? In the event of an accident and the motor shuts off, will the pump continue to run? If a fuel line were ruptured it could be a fire concern.
I just ordered the Vertical Vision Fuel Pump Relay TIPM piece myself. He said the $59 piece borrows the FP relay feature from another relay in the TIPM. The $99 piece has a toggle that allows someone to turn the pump on at any time, turn it off all the time (effectively an anti-theft device), or act normal as its own relay that only gets power when the ignition is on. I hope this fixes my extended cranking issue! I'll see tomorrow. Call the guy at VV there if you haven't already. I talked to him Tuesday. Jason was very helpful.
 
But with all due respect, you can also just replace the failed relay. I bought the correct replacement relay from DigiKey for $2.76, took apart the TIPM, unsoldered the bad relay, and soldered in a new relay. Taking apart the TIPM is a little tricky but not too hard, and the fix has lasted since I performed it in November 2022.
unsoldering and resoldering connections on a circuit board is not in everyone's wheelhouse.
 
Discussion starter · #68 ·
It's in my wheelhouse and I don't like driving that boat. :p
 
Not sure if anyone has posted this before but every body needs to go the verticalvisions.com and order the TIPM PLUG IN RELAY system for $59. It works! It is a permanent solution and only takes 5 minutes to install. We were so happy to find this! We took the information to our mechanic and he had never heard of it. He was thrilled. View attachment 68308
Ishts a relay or just a bypass.? I had ordered one, and whle waiting for it, we found that the original fuel pump relay had an external relay system already wired in as shown in previous thread.
 
I had this issue with a 2012 T&C. I bought a plug in module online, and that worked fine for many years.

Recently, I found an excellent YouTube video that showed how to disassemble the TIPM and remove/replace the faulty relay with a $10 replacement from Amazon... So I did that, and everything is working fine, and now I no longer need the plug-in module. Anybody wanna buy a plug in module? $99 bucks on eBay, I'll let it go for $25 View attachment 75697 View attachment 75698
View attachment 75699
Is it safe to assume you sold this already? And can you please provide the youtube link that helped you install a new relay?
THANK YOU.
 
After seeing a spike in people with no start issues, I figured it'd be best to do a simple write up on the fuel pump relay. (I also included a copy of the TSB for this issue on the Durango and a printable PDF of these instructions.) There are 3 ways to address the issue: the temporary bypass cable, an external relay, or one of the VV plug-in bypass modules. I only cover the bypass cable and the external relay. If you need help with the VV bypass, you probably shouldn't be driving in the first place.

The external relay is the recommended fix. It's cheap, permanent, safe, factory approved, and makes future issues much easier to deal with. I strongly advise soldering these connections. Not shown in my diagrams is the in-line fuse going to constant power - do not forget to include this.

The bypass cable should only be used as a temporary fix. It can leave the pump running when the engine is off and bad connections in the fuse box have caused fires.
View attachment 68197
Do not use the bypass cable as a permanent fix!

Here's the TIPM diagram with the external relay in place. There are 3 wires that you need to connect to. One of these you will leave the end going to the TIPM disconnected.
View attachment 68198
These are the connectors you will need to unplug to make the connections. The terminal numbers are in the color of the matching terminal on the standard relay. (Normally closed relay shown, but you should use a normally open relay.) You should verify the wire color before cutting into any wire.
View attachment 68199
The relay you use should be a normally open relay.
You should solder and heat shrink all connections for the best reliability.
You should have a fuse holder with a 20A fuse on the wire going to the TIPM B+ post.

Now for the bypass cable. Remember this is for testing and temporary use only.
View attachment 68200
The M7 slot has a keyed and a battery 12v output. Use this slot for testing only. It will leave the pump running when the engine is off.
The M37 slot is the same output the factory external relay repair uses and only has power when the engine is running or being started. Use this for an emergency bypass.
View attachment 68202
You can make a bypass cable out of 2 ATM fuse taps. They often come with a butt connector preinstalled on the wire. Remove it from one, strip the wire, and crimp it to the other.
The bottom fuse in the side going to the M25 fuel pump fuse must be empty to avoid backfeeding voltage to the Run/Start circuit.
When installing the bypass cable in M37 and M25, the wire side of the fuse tap will point toward the center of the TIPM. Installing it backwards in M37 may blow the 10A fuse. Installing backwards in M25 will not power the fuel pump.
I just bought the original built in relay and replaced it on the the TIPM circuit board. I replaced 5 of the common problem ones. Relays are $1.59 each on ebay. There are two versions of the relay, single pole and double pole. I had no problems but replaced them just in case. Those soldered in relays should of been in sockets for easy repair. My 2013 T & C has 238,000 km. Replaced some leaky power steering hoses due to salt corrosion and replaced a punctured radiator.
 
2012 TOWN AND COUNTRY LIMITED I had all the symptoms of a failed fuel pump relay and thanks to this thread I was able to talk to my local Chrysler Dealer. They added the external relay and it only cost me $100 (my warranty deductible). I purchased my brand new van in 2012 with the lifetime warranty ($2,800). It has been a great investment and has saved me so much. No more drained batteries. No more hard to no start issues since.

Thanks OP and to all who contributed on options for resolutions.
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Discussion starter · #73 ·
Nice! You actually got the dealer to install it. Usually they just push for a TIPM replacement. Guess they must be running low on stock.
 
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Discussion starter · #75 ·
It's definitely cheaper, but because it was never officially recalled on the vans they've usually pushed the TIPM replacement. That and it makes the service department more money. :p
 
So I have a question, I’ve done this bypass and it’s worked well for months. However, now when the car is super cold (it’s been cold in Nj) the car has a hard time starting for the first start of the day or if it sits or and gets cold soaked. Anyone else have this issue? Once it’s been run, it starts right up first crank when the engine is warm. Also on warm days starting just needs to be delayed for a few second once the keys is in the on position, I guess to prime the pump idk.

Anyone have any guesses why it’s so hard to start cold with this bypass solution?
 
So I have a question, I’ve done this bypass and it’s worked well for months. However, now when the car is super cold (it’s been cold in Nj) the car has a hard time starting for the first start of the day or if it sits or and gets cold soaked. Anyone else have this issue? Once it’s been run, it starts right up first crank when the engine is warm. Also on warm days starting just needs to be delayed for a few second once the keys is in the on position, I guess to prime the pump idk.

Anyone have any guesses why it’s so hard to start cold with this bypass solution?
2008 Grand Caravan 4.0 186K miles with the VV relay bypass since late 2022. No cold start issues, including this week where it has been in the teens in the AM in Northern Virginia
 
So I have a question, I’ve done this bypass and it’s worked well for months. However, now when the car is super cold (it’s been cold in Nj) the car has a hard time starting for the first start of the day or if it sits or and gets cold soaked. Anyone else have this issue? Once it’s been run, it starts right up first crank when the engine is warm. Also on warm days starting just needs to be delayed for a few second once the keys is in the on position, I guess to prime the pump idk.

Anyone have any guesses why it’s so hard to start cold with this bypass solution?
I'm not an expert, but my first thought would be an air/fuel measure issue, eg. mass air flow sensor, the ECU can't figure out what to feed the engine when it's cold.
I don't think it would be the fuel pump itself, because it would probably either work or not work.

Maybe provide production year and milage of your car so readers can suggest parts based on their average lifespan. Generally with starting issues, you gotta look for correct fuel, air and spark, and it's usually a pretty simple fix unless you have compression issues which is very unlikely if you do your oil changes.

Good luck
 
2009 Chrysler TC, 43K miles.
It's been having the crank no start, or start, then bad idle and die.
I installed the VV bypass 11/25/24 and have had zero issues since. (30 days roughly)

I had thought it was a computer issue up to this point because of the weird times it would occur.

Thanks for the information.
 
Discussion starter · #80 ·
So I have a question, I’ve done this bypass and it’s worked well for months. However, now when the car is super cold (it’s been cold in Nj) the car has a hard time starting for the first start of the day or if it sits or and gets cold soaked. Anyone else have this issue? Once it’s been run, it starts right up first crank when the engine is warm. Also on warm days starting just needs to be delayed for a few second once the keys is in the on position, I guess to prime the pump idk.

Anyone have any guesses why it’s so hard to start cold with this bypass solution?
Sounds like the check valve in the pump assembly has gone bad and leaks out the pressure. That or a metering issue like TC mentioned. If your mileage isn't low for this time of year, I'd think metering is fine.
 
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