After seeing a spike in people with no start issues, I figured it'd be best to do a simple write up on the fuel pump relay. (I also included a copy of the TSB for this issue on the Durango and a printable PDF of these instructions.) There are 3 ways to address the issue: the temporary bypass cable, an external relay, or one of the VV plug-in bypass modules. I only cover the bypass cable and the external relay. If you need help with the VV bypass, you probably shouldn't be driving in the first place.
The external relay is the recommended fix. It's cheap, permanent, safe, factory approved, and makes future issues much easier to deal with. I strongly advise soldering these connections. Not shown in my diagrams is the in-line fuse going to constant power - do not forget to include this.
The bypass cable should only be used as a temporary fix. It can leave the pump running when the engine is off and bad connections in the fuse box have caused fires.
Do not use the bypass cable as a permanent fix!
Here's the TIPM diagram with the external relay in place. There are 3 wires that you need to connect to. One of these you will leave the end going to the TIPM disconnected.
These are the connectors you will need to unplug to make the connections. The terminal numbers are in the color of the matching terminal on the standard relay. (Normally closed relay shown, but you should use a normally open relay.) You should verify the wire color before cutting into any wire.
The relay you use should be a normally open relay.
You should solder and heat shrink all connections for the best reliability.
You should have a fuse holder with a 20A fuse on the wire going to the TIPM B+ post.
Now for the bypass cable. Remember this is for testing and temporary use only.
The M7 slot has a keyed and a battery 12v output. Use this slot for testing only. It will leave the pump running when the engine is off.
The M37 slot is the same output the factory external relay repair uses and only has power when the engine is running or being started. Use this for an emergency bypass.
You can make a bypass cable out of 2 ATM fuse taps. They often come with a butt connector preinstalled on the wire. Remove it from one, strip the wire, and crimp it to the other.
The bottom fuse in the side going to the M25 fuel pump fuse must be empty to avoid backfeeding voltage to the Run/Start circuit.
When installing the bypass cable in M37 and M25, the wire side of the fuse tap will point toward the center of the TIPM. Installing it backwards in M37 may blow the 10A fuse. Installing backwards in M25 will not power the fuel pump.
The external relay is the recommended fix. It's cheap, permanent, safe, factory approved, and makes future issues much easier to deal with. I strongly advise soldering these connections. Not shown in my diagrams is the in-line fuse going to constant power - do not forget to include this.
The bypass cable should only be used as a temporary fix. It can leave the pump running when the engine is off and bad connections in the fuse box have caused fires.
Do not use the bypass cable as a permanent fix!
Here's the TIPM diagram with the external relay in place. There are 3 wires that you need to connect to. One of these you will leave the end going to the TIPM disconnected.
These are the connectors you will need to unplug to make the connections. The terminal numbers are in the color of the matching terminal on the standard relay. (Normally closed relay shown, but you should use a normally open relay.) You should verify the wire color before cutting into any wire.
The relay you use should be a normally open relay.
You should solder and heat shrink all connections for the best reliability.
You should have a fuse holder with a 20A fuse on the wire going to the TIPM B+ post.
Now for the bypass cable. Remember this is for testing and temporary use only.
The M7 slot has a keyed and a battery 12v output. Use this slot for testing only. It will leave the pump running when the engine is off.
The M37 slot is the same output the factory external relay repair uses and only has power when the engine is running or being started. Use this for an emergency bypass.
You can make a bypass cable out of 2 ATM fuse taps. They often come with a butt connector preinstalled on the wire. Remove it from one, strip the wire, and crimp it to the other.
The bottom fuse in the side going to the M25 fuel pump fuse must be empty to avoid backfeeding voltage to the Run/Start circuit.
When installing the bypass cable in M37 and M25, the wire side of the fuse tap will point toward the center of the TIPM. Installing it backwards in M37 may blow the 10A fuse. Installing backwards in M25 will not power the fuel pump.